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At the top, follow the throngs along Costa do Castelo to the entrance of Lisbon’s only castle.
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This is a dynamic time for Lisbon, with a seemingly unstoppable wave of new hotels, restaurants, and museums opening between the rambling old quarters and the waterfront that runs along the river Tagus to the Atlantic.
During the summer months, it comes into its own with life lived outside and special events to celebrate the warmer weather.
Fittingly for a city that’s reinventing itself as well as celebrating its past, Lisbon was the Ibero-American Capital of Culture 2017 (lisboacapitaliberoamericana.pt) with “Past and Present” the main theme.
Stalls range from bric-a-brac and antiques to South American-style hippy gear and CDs. Retrace your steps past the Sao Vicente de Fora church and monastery, left onto Rua São Tomé and down towards the Miradouro de Santa Luzia in Alfama, a bougainvillea-clad terrace with sea views.
Highlights necessitating a bigger suitcase – or a move to Lisbon – include a row of 1930s cinema seats and sets of art deco lights. Opposite, the rustic Farol de Santa Luzia (00(8a) is a cosy spot selling palatable Portuguese wine by the glass. Head down the Rua Augosto Rosa, continuing on to Largo Santo António da Sé, then Rua da Conceição turning right onto Rua Nova do Almada and left onto Rua Garrett.
Baixa, or lower town, sits in the centre with the broad Praça do Rossio square (officially named Praça Dom Pedro IV) (2) at its heart, fed by the vast artery of the palm-lined Avenida da Liberdade to the north and the pedestrianised Rua Augusto heading south to more grand waterfront-facing squares.
So far, so easy to navigate – because this part’sa all flat.
Continue straight onto the café-lined pavements of Praça da Figueira (4), a transport hub for the Baixa district, turn right onto Rue da Madalena, a colourful, commercial street lined with bookshops and hardware stores, then left onto Largo Chão do Loureiro (5).
From the old market building, now a Pingo Doce supermarket, take the 118 steps up from the elevator by the entrance (or take the lift).
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